The Cod Hole

Nestled within the vibrant tapestry of the Ribbon Reefs of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef lies a legendary dive site: The Cod Hole. With its remote location, diving at The Cod Hole is a privilege only a few Scuba Women get to experience. From encounters with the Giant Potato Cod (Epinephelus Tukula) to the kaleidoscope of coral gardens, every dive is a mesmerizing voyage of discovery. Only accessible by liveaboard or a day trip from Lizard Island, the Cod Hole beckons, with its depths ranging from 3 meters to 40 meters. Offering an exhilarating yet easy scuba diving experience, it presents an exciting opportunity to explore the underwater wonders of the pristine Ribbon Reefs.

It’s Never Too Late to Become a Confident Scuba Woman – Take the Dive with Me, Tanya.

Taking a Giant Stride to Scuba with Giant Potato Cod

Standing atop the towering dive platform of Mike Ball’s liveaboard vessel, the Spoilsport, a mix of nerves and excitement courses through me. With my scuba gear securely in place, I exchange a reassuring look with my son Josh, my trusted dive buddy. The resonance of my breathing changes as I inhale and put the regulator in my mouth. We are about to plummet into The Cod Hole.

My giant stride is perfect as I make the leap into the crystal clear waters below. We are met by the imposing figure of a Giant Potato Cod, leisurely lounging beneath the shadow of the custom-built dive boat. It’s as though this majestic creature has been waiting to extend a silent welcome, serenely following us down to 15 meters as we begin to explore its home.

Two Scuba Divers performing a giant stride from a high boat platform
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Just the day before, we were fortunate to share the ocean with Dwarf Minke Whales at Lighthouse Bommie, an encounter that left us awestruck. While the Dwarf Minke Whales are the reason for our liveaboard adventure, the allure of the Cod Hole promises to be another thrilling chapter in our fabulous liveaboard adventure.

Where is the Cod Hole Ribbon Reef’s Great Barrier Reef?

We are on the Ribbon Reefs, at the northern end of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in Australia. Best accessed by a liveaboard, the Cod Hole is part of a pristine collection of coral reefs spanning approximately 100km from Cooktown to the edge of the Continental Shelf.

When I Imagined the Cod Hole, I envisioned a deep hole with strong currents. In truth, The Cod Hole is an effortless dive with depths ranging from 3 meters to 40 meters. We are there in winter to see the Dwarf Minke Whales, and the water is a pleasant 26 degrees. The Giant Cod aside, the Cod Hole is a breathtakingly beautiful dive site.  

Giant Potato Cod and Coral The Cod Hole Ribbon Reefs
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Scuba Diving with Giant Potato Cod

Growing up to 2 meters in length, our interactions with the Giant Potato Cod are amazing. Black spots on their sleek bodies shimmer as they languidly swim beside us. These gentle giants are relaxed, friendly, and curious and seem to enjoy the company of scuba divers.

Hovering quietly, I feel a connection with one of the Cod. He really is the master, and I am awed by his presence.  A substantial fish, bigger than me, I move out of the way as this enormous cod swims directly at and around me. Feeling small, I note the thick, lustrous skin as he gracefully passes me by.

A Scuba Woman with a Giant Potato Cod
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Sanctioned feeding of the Giant Potato Cod is allowed, and they are certainly hoping we will provide an easy meal for them.  The Mike Ball team takes down a container filled with fish heads to attract the cod. It works, and the Giant Potato Cod are rewarded at the end of the dive when the contents are emptied into the sea. One cod is very interested in the container of fish and knocks our guide off balance.

The Cod Hole: A Picturesque and Diverse Dive Site

Anticipation bubbled within me as I learned The Cod Hole was on our dive itinerary. Eager for the chance to encounter these magnificent creatures underwater, I plunged into the depths of The Cod Hole with excitement. What I discovered surpassed my expectations—this dive site proved itself to be a gem of the ocean, offering pristine reef vistas, dramatic swim-throughs, and reefs of multicolored Acropora corals. Once again, I found myself spellbound by the breathtaking beauty and astounding variety of marine life thriving beneath the waves.

The underwater world unfolded before us as we encountered a plethora of marine wonders. Flowery cod, grey reef sharks, trevally, parrotfish, and an array of colorful fish species, sweetlips, coral trout, puffer fish, barracuda, and lionfish graced our dive. Among them, the magnificent Maori wrasse stood out, their iridescent beauty and formidable size rivaling that of the Giant Cod. Truly, The Cod Hole revealed itself as a treasure trove of marine marvels, captivating our senses with its unparalleled underwater spectacle.

Reef on the Cod Hole
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Giant Clams, Giant Cod, and Pygmy Seahorses Diving the Cod Hole

Things obviously grow big at The Cod Hole. Giant clams are scattered throughout the dive site. One, in particular, is so large it has become wedged between two coral bommies. Easily able to fit within its shell, I can imagine myself being slowly digested. Giant Clams are known to live to 100 years and weigh up to two hundred kilos. This colossal clam must be close to both. I really am feeling very small on this dive.

Giant Clam at the Cod Hole 
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On the opposite end of the size spectrum, Josh and I are hoping to see a pygmy seahorse, which hides at depth. The tiny little seahorses grow between 1 ½ and 3 cm. They give birth to live young, with the male carrying the eggs in his pouch for two weeks.  The cute little babies are only 2mm long. The Cod Hole is our first opportunity to search for a pygmy seahorse. They are known to camouflage on the coral fans at 30 meters but manage to evade us. If only this Senior Scuba Woman had thought to take her glasses.

Who discovered the Cod Hole?

Originally named Cormorant Pass, the Cod Hole was first discovered by Ron and Valerie Taylor in 1971. The Taylors kept the dive site secret for some time and fought to protect the area and the Giant Potato Cod. The Cod Hole is now deemed a “sensitive location” by the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority. Originally inhabited by 25 cod, there are now only a few. The decline in numbers is of concern and gives me pause for thought. I would hate to think scuba divers have contributed to the decrease in numbers. It is yet another reminder for me to become more aware of and involved in marine conservation.

Giant Potato Cod at the Cod Hole
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With Mike Ball holding Advance Ecotourism accreditation, I’m reassured that our expedition is dedicated to upholding environmental best practices and promoting conservation efforts. This commitment is palpable throughout the vessel, where every aspect reflects a conscientious approach to sustainability. Accompanying us is Dr. Alistair Birtles, a prominent researcher of Dwarf Minke Whales and a passionate advocate for marine conservation. His presence enriches our journey, offering a wealth of knowledge on marine ecosystems and reinforcing the ethos of environmental stewardship. It’s clear that aboard the Spoilsport, we’re united in our dedication to environmentalism and the principles of ecotourism.

At the end of the dive, we returned to the Spoilsport to find a Giant Potato Cod patiently waiting under the dive boat. We reluctantly bid him farewell as the sun set on another spectacular day of diving.

If you, too, want to experience the wonders of Cod Hole diving and the Ribbon Reefs, both Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Spirit of Freedom operate liveaboards from Cairns and have Advanced Ecotourism Certification by Ecotourism Australia.

For more information on the Dwarf Minke Whale Project

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Published by emptynestdiver

Learning to dive in my fifties has been a great adventure, I am a senior scuba diver but young at heart.

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